Hef is back.... well I never went anywhere but here is an excuse of an apology. I'll leave the real blogging to Laani and just stick to the occasional story.
Friday 28th October, San Cristobal, Galapagos Islands.
The more observant readers of this fine blog may have noticed that apart from creating the blog and following this with an initial flurry of activity I have been rather slack in any form or shape of blog updating. If it wasn’t for Laani and her Laani rants this blog would still be languishing somewhere around New Zealand and in all probability would have faded away into obscurity. It’s not that I haven’t wanted to update you all on the ongoing adventure or that I just couldn’t be arsed. Quite the opposite if anything, I’ve spent many a long night watch composing fabulously witty tales of our voyage thus far, seriously some of the stuff was only amazing. If only I had managed to make the huge leap from the composition in my head to the actual web-site. Easier said than done as I’m sure Laani will testify to. You see it’s not just a simple case of whipping up a few words then uploading them the next time you are on the web. Up until now, getting on the web has been more difficult than catching Osama, ok they got him eventually but by the time they did nobody was very interested anymore. It’s been the same with the blog, by the time we got somewhere with internet access so much had happened it seemed like a mammoth operation to try to condense the past few months into a coherent few lines. Add to this the banging your head off a wall frustration of internet access (or lack there-of) in French Polynesia with the demise of my beloved old Mac laptop, on which the few small blog entries I had composed were awaiting internet access, and well you get the picture. While I’m making excuses I might as well bring out the big guns and point out that it hasn’t been exactly plain sailing, great sailing but not ‘easy’ sailing, there always seemed to be stuff to fix, check, fix after checking it, check you’ve fixed it right then rip out completely and replace, also, as Laani has mentioned, we were kind of sinking there at one stage (slowly, ok Laani’s Mum and Dad, we were never actually in trouble, much) and we have managed to sail across most of the Pacific against the prevailing winds and currents which takes a fair bit of time and effort not to mention a little work and organisation, so it’s not like I’ve been sitting back in a hammock under a palm tree sipping on a cold beer. Now I can’t pretend I’ve been photo-shopped into all the fantastic photos on this blog, looking back over them you can’t help glossing over the rough times, it’s been a pretty amazing ride so far, the good and the bad. There have been palm trees, clear blue water, cold beers a plenty and many good times. Ah I suppose that’s enough excuses, on with the blog but before I do I need to tip my hat to Laani who despite the barrage of excuses I have managed to come up with has still somehow kept the blog up to date. Now let me tell you about this little place they call the Pacific…………
The more observant readers of this fine blog may have noticed that apart from creating the blog and following this with an initial flurry of activity I have been rather slack in any form or shape of blog updating. If it wasn’t for Laani and her Laani rants this blog would still be languishing somewhere around New Zealand and in all probability would have faded away into obscurity. It’s not that I haven’t wanted to update you all on the ongoing adventure or that I just couldn’t be arsed. Quite the opposite if anything, I’ve spent many a long night watch composing fabulously witty tales of our voyage thus far, seriously some of the stuff was only amazing. If only I had managed to make the huge leap from the composition in my head to the actual web-site. Easier said than done as I’m sure Laani will testify to. You see it’s not just a simple case of whipping up a few words then uploading them the next time you are on the web. Up until now, getting on the web has been more difficult than catching Osama, ok they got him eventually but by the time they did nobody was very interested anymore. It’s been the same with the blog, by the time we got somewhere with internet access so much had happened it seemed like a mammoth operation to try to condense the past few months into a coherent few lines. Add to this the banging your head off a wall frustration of internet access (or lack there-of) in French Polynesia with the demise of my beloved old Mac laptop, on which the few small blog entries I had composed were awaiting internet access, and well you get the picture. While I’m making excuses I might as well bring out the big guns and point out that it hasn’t been exactly plain sailing, great sailing but not ‘easy’ sailing, there always seemed to be stuff to fix, check, fix after checking it, check you’ve fixed it right then rip out completely and replace, also, as Laani has mentioned, we were kind of sinking there at one stage (slowly, ok Laani’s Mum and Dad, we were never actually in trouble, much) and we have managed to sail across most of the Pacific against the prevailing winds and currents which takes a fair bit of time and effort not to mention a little work and organisation, so it’s not like I’ve been sitting back in a hammock under a palm tree sipping on a cold beer. Now I can’t pretend I’ve been photo-shopped into all the fantastic photos on this blog, looking back over them you can’t help glossing over the rough times, it’s been a pretty amazing ride so far, the good and the bad. There have been palm trees, clear blue water, cold beers a plenty and many good times. Ah I suppose that’s enough excuses, on with the blog but before I do I need to tip my hat to Laani who despite the barrage of excuses I have managed to come up with has still somehow kept the blog up to date. Now let me tell you about this little place they call the Pacific…………
Laani’s Rant:
Easter Island (Rapa Nui) and the mysterious Moai
18 to 30 Sept 2011
I hate to brag….but I’m going to anyway…this was my second visit to Rapa Nui and it was brilliant to be able to visit in a completely different way (on a yacht), with a very different mindset (I was on my backpacking round South America six years ago last time). Unfortunately, the island is as notorious as Pitcairn amongst cruisers and it lived up to its bad rep. Out of a 14 day stay, we only managed to get ashore for 7 of them and we had many sleepless nights, up checking the anchor, checking the shore, moving the boat, sleeping in our separate sea beds. In spite of all of that, it was still well and truly worth it.
After a grand total of 2 days ashore for me (only 1 for Ian) in the last month we were both pretty keen to get on land once we’d cleared customs and immigration in Hanga Roa, which is the main town, but luck wasn’t with us. It turns out that the fuel we got for the outboard engine was PURE water (must’ve been the end of their tank??) which almost ruined out engine. Of course, working out what was the actual reason for it not starting took poor Ian the entire arvo/ evening…what he thought was the problem initially led him down another track , then another. Eventually he had stripped the entire engine and got her going. It’s only through his ‘never give up’ attitude and mechanical smarts that we still have an outboard (I just sat down and had a wine and whine), otherwise we’d be rowing everywhere from now on.
We were on the move again the next morning as the wind and swell had picked up to a nasty level, and once again it was a relief to be sailing! We found a secure and spectacular on the east coast with the site of Tongariki – 15 enormous Moai on a platform by the sea (they were always constructed to face inland and keep watch over their village) – directly in front of us. An awesome view, even the second time round. We only managed to get ashore one day out of the few we stayed (very high winds and swell again) but boy it was great to stretch the legs finally! We inspected Tongariki first then walked up to the ‘nursery’ where all the Moai were carved from the side of a big volcano. We managed to beat the crowds and it wasn’t the first time we counted ourselves very lucky at being slightly off the ‘tourist track’.
Next move (again because of wind and swell conditions) was around to the north to a stunning beach called Anakena, again with Moai right there in front of us. Except this time they were amongst bright white sand coconut trees, in a crystal clear little bay. Finally, a bit of social time as we met the only other cruisers on the island, having arrived just after us, the lovely Bill and Lydia from the UK on Nhkwazi. We even had some Chileans on holidays from Santiago swim out and have tea and tim tams with us. Oh it was nice for us both to have a chat to someone else! I loved being able to kayak in to the beach and go for long walks along the horse tracks which line the rocks and cliffs. It was just me and hundreds of horses, uninterrupted by people and traffic. I find I really miss all the walking I used to do in Sydney; there ain’t much room for walking on a 36 foot yacht.
After a week of being around Easter Island we finally managed a few nights at the Hanga Roa anchorage in fairly calm weather. Getting the dinghy in here is easier than Pitcairn, but still a bit freaky at times – you have to wait for a set to go through and hope for the best (and you couldn’t do it at all in big swell) Ian managed to get a couple of surfs in while I caught up with the ‘world’ on the net. The hike up to the stunning volcanic crater Ranu Roku was like walking through the Aussie bush – red dirt and eucalyptus (the scent took me home). We had a dog I nicknamed Kettle who followed us, waited for us or found us the entire way, no matter what stealth manouvers we employed. We’re still not quite sure what he got out of the relationship since all he got was yelled at, but maybe he just fancied a walk.
I FINALLY got to treat Ian to his birthday dinner out (French Polynesia was either overpriced, not a restaurant to be seen, or we were out with others) and we had a glutinous dinner with the best bottle of red (Malbec) either of us had had in months! Oh it was lovely! And we got it in just in time, since the next morning we awoke, thinking we were hung over to the boat rocking and rolling and reminiscent of Pitcairn. We ran the gauntlet to shore one final time (we were both getting seasick staying on the boat), the swell having picked up a lot. We did a few last important things like pay for overpriced fruit and veg and convince the authorities that we may have to leave in the middle of the night (due to weather) so they’d better process our departure. For some strange reason (beurocracy?) they wouldn’t let us do it ashore, and insisted on coming out to the boat. By then it was far too rough for even one of the six of them to make on board, and Ian had to jump into their boat while they stood off and filled in the paperwork. We had everything ready to go ‘just in case’ but neither of us was mentally ready to leave, hoping for one last night’s sleep before 3-4 weeks of watches. Very luckily for us, the weather calmed just enough for us to stay, although you still couldn’t put anything down without it sliding or falling (things you take for granted on land).
Laani’s Rant:
Easter Island to Galapagos Islands – not a bad trip!!
01 to 18 Oct 2011
Two and a half weeks was a pretty good time for this trip, all things considered, we thought it could be as bad 4 weeks. We had lovely sunny down weather and downwind sailing for the first few days. With the cruising chute up (and poled out) we were only just barely moving, but we WERE moving, and in the right direction too so that was great! Then the wind started gusting up to 35 knots and we’d have to bear away and furl the headsail in (we had a second reef in the main by this stage) and then back down again. For those of you that don’t sail (like me), this could be when you ‘ blow’ a sail and thousands of dollars (and we know quite a few boats that have) so we’ve learnt to be fairly cautious, even if it means slowing down since we still have many miles to go. Eventually the wind settled into just being very strong, but steady, so we spent about 10 days with only the staysail up and the second reef in the main, plodding along and smashing into wave after wave. We were heeled over on our ‘normal’ tack (starboard). It was often grey or overcast and big waves would empty into the cockpit so it was impossible to sit outside on your watch. Instead we spent the entire time behind the spray hood (unless we had our full oilskins on). We also had about 2 knots of current against us most of the way. In spite of this, it wasn’t too bad, nothing like the trip up from NZ to Raivaevae. Is it down to experience? Acceptance of the crappy times? Or have we begun to toughen up? Who knows. Whatever it was, it was still bloody great to arrive into San Cristobel and anchor at midnight and we congratulated ourselves by laughing at the sounds of the barking sea lions and getting drunk..................................................
Laani´s Rant
San Cristobel, Galapagos Islands – it´s evolution baby...
18 to 31 October 2011
Wreck Bay, Kadoona (far right)
................................... to be rudely awoken at 6:30AM by an ´agent´ named Pablo in a water taxi trying to get our business. His insistent ´hola´s´ were ignored until he disappeared and returned again an hour later (still too early for our first morning in port but we relented). It is Equadorian law that you MUST have an ´agent´ when checking in as the Port Captain will not deal directly with you. I see it as ´spreading the wealth´, something we will be seeing a lot more of in these Latin American (and much poorer) parts of the world. We negotiated Pablo´s service price down as far as we could be bothered considering our lack of sleep and he began organising the Port Captain (who still spoke to us directly in spite of the ´law´) and quarantine etc to come out to the boat. Nobody spoke English, including our agent and we speak very little Spanish so it was fun! One thing that none of them could grasp, evening after countless explanations including pointing on our world map, was where we had come from (Easter Island) and where we were going to (Panama). They just could NOT get it! It was obvious once again that we were going a different (wrong) way!!
The lovely clear waters of Wreck Bay gave us what we had hoped for and needed. A safe, secure and protected anchorage, much rest (a full night’s sleep EVERY night, and in the same bed!), lots of fun (socialising and eating out), contact with the outside world (internet) and a bit of touristy stuff. Checking in and out here is pretty expensive (it cost us almost $600), but it was well and truly worth it – it was the first time we felt we were really relaxed and ‘living the dream’ since embarking on this big adventure. A proper carefree holiday, and we contributed very generously to the Galapaganian economy. Since I’d been here 6 years ago and done all the touristy stuff I was happy to relax (swim, walk, kayak, internet and observe the abundance of wildlife right at my doorstep). Ian ventured a bit further afield on snorkelling trips, on one mammoth cycle (mostly uphill) to the other side of the island to see tortoises, lakes & volcanoes, and even went surfing. We had great walks and cycles to other beaches and saw heaps of wildlife (sea lions, marine iguanas, turtles, and numerous birds including the famous ‘blue footed boobie’s). The sea lions seemed to love rubbing themselves on the hull of our boat so we were often awoken in the middle of the night to the sound of bubbles and a gentle rub! A tiny little pink fish made its way into our galley sink one day, pumped in through the salt water inlet.
Wildlife aside, we really enjoyed the human aspect of being here. For the first few days we ignored the wildlife while we laughed at the funny tourists in their white socks and sandals, vests, bum bags and big hats living life through their cameras. It was a great laugh, no malice intended, just happy to see humans and observe their quirky actions and behaviours…
Socially, one of the best wins for us was meeting three very different gentlemen on our neighbouring multi million dollar ex-charter boat ´Niña´. Jo (the American owner), David (the skipper and muscle brought in) and Jake (David´s Equadorian friend/ translator) were different ages, from different countries and backgrounds and a great barrel of laughs and entertainment. They were attempting to get the boat out of Equadorian waters, to Panama, after much wrangling with the authorities and others that were claiming ´rights´ to her. They needed charts etc for Panama which we could help them out with….and we were rewarding with our first hot showers since NZ in April. Ahhhhhhhh BLISS!!!!! Then we got to know each other over lobster and box wine and we had a ball. They were around for the next few nights so we dined and went to the towns only nightclub Iguana Rock before saying our farewells as they took the boat out of the harbour for the first time in a year. Sadly, she arrived back at the end of our stay, having only made it to a neighbouring island to refuel before lawyers slapped a writ on them and they were forced back here for more battles. We wish our friends the best of luck.
My birthday was celebrated on our Saturday here, since I didn´t think having a birthday that special…actually it was the fact I´d still have to maintain my watches and not be able to eat, drink and be pampered! Ian spoilt me with a hot lazy brekkie, lovely pressies (my fave being the tiny toy tortoise who giggles and says ´I love you´ in a very cute voice…I guess I´m easily amused!), an arvo at the beach snorkelling and rivalling the sea lions in their lazy lolling around on the sand and a beautiful lobster dinner out.
Back to reality the next day as we prepped the boat for yet another passage…our last in the Pacific, spending a couple of hours scrubbing the hull in our full wetsuits (very cold waters here due to the Humboldt Current), doing passage plans stocking up on fresh fruit and veg (and cheese glorious cheese….the Equadorians are big on cheese and it´s pretty affordable, even for the amount I consume).¨
Lots to celebrate on this next leg: my birthday (yes I´m still gonna milk it), 10 000 miles for us in Kadoona AND me crossing the equator for the first time in a boat. That last one I´ll leave Ian to explain (if he decides to join us in blog land again), but all three will happen in the first couple of days of us leaving here on the Tues 1st November. It should be an interesting trip as we will finally be seeing other boats and ships, having crossed the entire Pacific Ocean and seen NOTHING! So, hasta luego (seeya later), I should have a few more interesting tales for you in Panama…
Wildlife aside, we really enjoyed the human aspect of being here. For the first few days we ignored the wildlife while we laughed at the funny tourists in their white socks and sandals, vests, bum bags and big hats living life through their cameras. It was a great laugh, no malice intended, just happy to see humans and observe their quirky actions and behaviours…
Socially, one of the best wins for us was meeting three very different gentlemen on our neighbouring multi million dollar ex-charter boat ´Niña´. Jo (the American owner), David (the skipper and muscle brought in) and Jake (David´s Equadorian friend/ translator) were different ages, from different countries and backgrounds and a great barrel of laughs and entertainment. They were attempting to get the boat out of Equadorian waters, to Panama, after much wrangling with the authorities and others that were claiming ´rights´ to her. They needed charts etc for Panama which we could help them out with….and we were rewarding with our first hot showers since NZ in April. Ahhhhhhhh BLISS!!!!! Then we got to know each other over lobster and box wine and we had a ball. They were around for the next few nights so we dined and went to the towns only nightclub Iguana Rock before saying our farewells as they took the boat out of the harbour for the first time in a year. Sadly, she arrived back at the end of our stay, having only made it to a neighbouring island to refuel before lawyers slapped a writ on them and they were forced back here for more battles. We wish our friends the best of luck.
My birthday was celebrated on our Saturday here, since I didn´t think having a birthday that special…actually it was the fact I´d still have to maintain my watches and not be able to eat, drink and be pampered! Ian spoilt me with a hot lazy brekkie, lovely pressies (my fave being the tiny toy tortoise who giggles and says ´I love you´ in a very cute voice…I guess I´m easily amused!), an arvo at the beach snorkelling and rivalling the sea lions in their lazy lolling around on the sand and a beautiful lobster dinner out.
Back to reality the next day as we prepped the boat for yet another passage…our last in the Pacific, spending a couple of hours scrubbing the hull in our full wetsuits (very cold waters here due to the Humboldt Current), doing passage plans stocking up on fresh fruit and veg (and cheese glorious cheese….the Equadorians are big on cheese and it´s pretty affordable, even for the amount I consume).¨
Lots to celebrate on this next leg: my birthday (yes I´m still gonna milk it), 10 000 miles for us in Kadoona AND me crossing the equator for the first time in a boat. That last one I´ll leave Ian to explain (if he decides to join us in blog land again), but all three will happen in the first couple of days of us leaving here on the Tues 1st November. It should be an interesting trip as we will finally be seeing other boats and ships, having crossed the entire Pacific Ocean and seen NOTHING! So, hasta luego (seeya later), I should have a few more interesting tales for you in Panama…